G's Spot - Seattle Underground and Pioneer Square


Below is some history on the "Seattle Underground" as it was told to me on Bill Speidel's Underground Tour. The tour takes people through Seattle's historic Pioneer Square area and to the original street level, now underground.
 
The original settlement that grew into Seattle was located on a small island surrounded by tidal flats. As the city expanded, many areas of the business district were prone to flooding twice a day when the tides came in. Some of these low-lying areas were filled in over time, but much of the early fill material was sawdust from the local mill, which wasn't particularly stable or dry. Seattle's streets had potholes large enough to be included on city maps and for local children to float rafts on for fun. After one such child drowned, editorials in the newspaper demanded installation of life-saving equipment at intersections and swimming lessons for children. More difficulties were caused by the increasing popularity of the flush toilet. There wasn't even a sewage system to hook them up to until one was made out of some 6-inch wooden box "pipes." Residents living at or near sea level could not flush their toilets at high tide or they would be blasted by backwash. Some of these crapper geysers were reportedly six feet high. The newspaper was kind enough to print daily tidal charts to help residents avoid this. In 1889 a fire wiped out a large section of Seattle, providing the opportunity to rebuild and make things right. The city wanted to regrade low-lying areas, but this was expected to take years, and many property owners were not willing to wait. Most businesses started reconstruction immediately after the fire, whereas the city didn't get around to regrading the streets until a year later. The city continued with its plans however, and used retaining walls to raise the roads anywhere from 10 to 30 feet above the level of existing buildings and sidewalks. New water and sewage systems were then run along top. For a number of years the height difference between the new roads and the original sidewalks was a major inconvenience to pedestrians. Just to cross a street from the sidewalk required climbing up one ladder and down another. It was more of an inconvenience to some -- in just a few years at least 19 pedestrians died after falling from roads or ladders to the sidewalk, or being crushed on the sidewalk by objects falling off the roads above (many stores left heavy merchandise at the roadside to facilitate loading). From 1892 to 1900 new sidewalks were constructed to match the regraded street levels but the space below was never filled in. The original sidewalks and building entrances still remained useable below and this was the beginning of Seattle's Underground.(Underground cross-section) Thirty-three city blocks had two tiers of sidewalks, in effect creating the world's first subterranean mall. Stairways at the main intersections allowed continued access. Despite the extra walking distances, most people still preferred to shop at the old street level because it was quieter, cleaner, safer, and dryer. Safer, that is, until the bubonic plague shut it down from 1907 to 1919. From the time it re-opened until World War II, the Underground went through a golden age when it housed illegal saloons (prohibition was from 1920-1933), bordellos, gambling halls, and even opium dens. The military stopped all the fun when they took it over during World War II, and not long after it was sealed up for good. It seems it was giving thieves easy access to stores. Nowadays most businesses use their underground space for storage. The Underground Tour takes people to some of the areas that aren't currently being used. There really isn't a lot to see but the stories the guides tell make it interesting.
(Underground entrance)
One of the underground entrances
that wasn't paved over
(Underground skylight - above)
Section of the original sidewalk still in use
 
(Underground skylight - below)
Underground, looking up at sidewalk
(Underground scene)
Original storefronts on left,
retaining wall for raised road at right
(Underground sign)(Underground sign)
(Original water pipe)
Section of early Seattle water system
(hollowed-out log)
(Underground sign)
100 years worth of cobwebs on ceiling
 
(Vintage Crapper tank)
Vintage Crapper tank
(Vintage Crapper)
Vintage Crapper
(Pioneer Square c.1912)
Pioneer Square in 1912
(Pioneer Square 2005)
Pioneer Square in 2005
Most of the structures in the 1912 photo are still standing today, though trees now obscure the view. The Pioneer Building, at center, is a little shorter now, having lost its tower in a 1949 earthquake. The Seattle Hotel was demolished in 1961, eventually to be replaced by the "sinking ship" parking lot. The Smith (of Smith Corona and Smith & Wesson) Tower (right) was completed in 1914 and remained Seattle's tallest structure until the Space Needle was built in 1961-1962. The Bank of America Tower (formerly Columbia Center) at left now holds this distinction.
(Pergola)The iron and glass pergola covered an underground comfort station which opened 1909. With marble stalls, brass fixtures, and oak chairs, the bathrooms were described as the world's most luxurious (of those located underground, that is). It also served as a cable trolley stop. In 2001 it completely collapsed after being hit by a truck. From the photo you can see it has since been repaired. The comfort station below has been closed since probably the late 1940's. The operators of the Underground Tour have offered to pay for its restoration so they could include it on their tour but I haven't heard of any action on this proposal.
(Booty)The original totem pole was stolen from a Tlingit village in Alaska. A group of prominent Seattle citizens hauled it off during a tour of Alaska in 1899, later claiming the village was deserted. Eight of those involved were indicted for theft by an Alaskan grand jury, but some wining and dining of the District Court Judge got the case dismissed. Compensation of $500 was later paid, but according to one source it was mistakenly sent to people of another village. After the original was damaged in 1938 a replacement was carved which still stands in the square.
(Chief Seattle Fountain) There were originally two other fountains identical to this one in other areas of Seattle. Made in 1909, they were designed as drinking fountains for people, horses, and dogs. A bust of Chief Seattle stands on top. The signs behind the fountain are written in his Lushootseed dialect and say, "far away brothers & sisters we still remember you" and "Chief Seattle now the streets are our home." Seattle was the leader of the Duwamish and Suquamish tribes and was friendly with the white man, unlike some other native residents. He was also good friends with one of the founding fathers of the settlement that would become Seattle, which was probably a big factor in why he became it's eponym. Chief Seattle was the first to sign the Port Elliot Treaty of 1855 and sell out to The Man. Under this agreement, many of the native Puget Sound residents gave up their land in exchange for settlement on reservations and financial compensation. Unhappiness with the treaty led to the "Indian Wars" of 1855-56 and disputes relating to it still continue to this day. For example, the Duwamish never received their own reservation and were never federally recognized. Kind of ironic since they were the ones who inhabited the land where Seattle now sits. Bill Clinton officially recognized them on the last day of his term, but when Mr. Bush came into office his administration reversed the decision. The birds around the square helped to make the symbolic image at right. (Chief Seattle Fountain)
Bonus Trivia:
Yesler Way (street at rightmost of Pioneer Square photos) was the site of the first steam-powered sawmill on Puget Sound. It was nicknamed "Skid Road" because logs were dragged down it to the mill. The term later took on a negative meaning because this was the part of down where brothels, bars, bums, and all other things considered undesirable, at least officially, were located. Because of this, some claim that Seattle is the origin of the term "skid road" or "skid row." You will be glad to hear that Yesler Way is upholding the tradition. For whatever reason, Seattle's homeless people seem to congregate here and guide books suggest to avoid it at night. It happened that I ended up there on my first night in Seattle when Victor was trying to find a place to buy beer.

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