Big Island (Part 2)

(Big Island Map)

Kealakekua Bay and the Captain Cook Monument

The north end of Kealakekua Bay was supposed to be one of the best snorkeling spots on the Big Island and we weren't disappointed. The coral was great and there were plenty of fish, which we could even watch without getting into the water. The only way into this area was by hiking, boat, or monster truck. Lacking a monster truck we chose the former, but climbing back up the hill later made renting kayaks seem like the best option. In the old days, caves in the cliffs along the bay were used to store bones of Hawaiian royalty. The spot on the shore where Captain Cook was killed was marked by a granite block. There was also a larger monument to him, which some people apparently had some issues with (see pictures). Whether or not Cook "discovered" Hawaii depends on what definition you use for the word. The Polynesians were obviously there a good 1000 years before him. He may not have even been the first European to land in Hawaii -- some historians believe that the Spanish and/or Dutch beat him to it. You could still say HE "discovered" it though, since HE had never been there before. One version of Cook's time in Hawaii can be found here.

Bottom of trail

Tamarind

Cliffs overlooking Kealakekua Bay

Cook Monument

Details of vandalism on C(r)ook Monument
and stone marking spot of Cook's death

Coral (inset: slate pencil urchin)

Fish visible from shore

Coral and spotted puffer

Donkeys

Back in the day, donkeys were used as pack animals on the coffee farms in North Kona. When they were replaced by jeeps in the 1950's some were emancipated by their owners. Their descendants still inhabit the area. In the mornings and evenings they often cross Highway 19 traveling to and from feeding/drinking areas.

Well hung donkey sign

Speed trap keeps asses safe

Couple of donkey themed stores

Modern Hawaiian Graffiti

A unique form of graffiti is found along Highway 19. Piles of coral are placed on the dark 'a'a to form words and pictures. Most messages are the typical so-and-so loves so-and-so but there are a few more creative works.

Ancient Hawaiian Graffiti - Puako Petroglyphs

Over 3000 petroglyphs are carved in the pahoehoe here.

Churches

St Benedict's Church was decorated by Belgian priest Father John Velge between 1899 and 1904. Biblical scenes are painted on the walls, including one of Hell to keep the parishioners in line. It's almost as good as the painting that used to hang in my grandmother's basement. For some crazy reason the archivist photographed the other murals but not this one. I had to transfer it from the video camera. In case you didn't figure it out, all the structures behind the altar and candy cane pillars are illusions.

Lei-d statue outside church

Interior of St. Benedict's

Friendly reminder to give generously

St Peter's is helluva cute church right on the ocean shore. It gets bashed around once in a while by a tidal wave or hurricane but it somehow has managed to avoid destruction for the 90+ years since it was moved here.

Helluva cute St. Peter's Church

Helluva small inside

View out window:
Helluva sinking feeling

Waipi'o Valley

Because Big Island is comparatively young it doesn't have all the the sculpted valleys and cliffs that are found on Oahu and Kauai. Only Kohala (volcano/mountains) on the northern tip of Hawaii has been around long enough for these type of features to form. Waipi'o is the southernmost and largest of a number of valleys on the northeast coast. It was formerly the political and religious center of the Big Island. At that time there may have been seven to ten thousand people living in the valley but now there's probably more like fifty -- no doubt less than the number of tourists wandering around at any given time. A Tsunami hit the area in 1946 and wiped out the whole valley. Nobody was killed but most residents did not bother to rebuild. We spent a while wandering around the valley, wading through supposedly leptospirosis-infested streams and getting lost. A dog followed us down from the top of the valley and stayed with us for most of our journey. I think it was just bored and looking for some action, sort of like the 'Littlest Hobo'. When we were leaving we saw it back at the top looking for more adventure. Maybe tomorrow, he'll want to settle down. Until tomorrow he'll just keep moving on....